Day 2: Austria
On our second day in Europe, the first destination was Neuschwanstein, the castle which served as the inspiration for Sleeping Beauty Castle in Disneyland. First, though, we had to get some breakfast. Upon greeting the inkeeper, we were told of the breakfast options, “Hungry? Ja, you will have muesli.” In addition to muesli atop some very good yogurt there was a spread of meats and cheeses that would become standard over the next few days.
After breakfast and a short walk around the monastery, the first of many churches, we hopped into the 5 and headed toward Austria which we would skip through on our way to the castle. After a fairly uneventful drive along some motoroways and a stop in at a tourist info center, we came upon the road that, from looking at the map, seemed to be the best route to Neuschwanstein. Though it meandered through a valley next to a beautiful blue-green Plansee, this road turned out to be a somewhat undesirable avenue to the schloß. Most Americans are aware that smaller cars rule in Europe and being there only reinforces this fact. A 5 series is a sizable vehicle, but certainly not “large” by US standards; in Europe, however, I couldn’t imagine having to drive anything larger. The road that we had chosen was two car widths wide, but only barely. With my right wheels centimeters from the edge of the road (and wooden posts only a decimeter or so from said edge), the wing mirrors of cars passing in the other direction were no more than a hand-width from my own. In a brand-new car, this is not a relaxing time. In time, though, I became accustomed to this because of the much greater skill of European drivers. Generally, you don’t have to drive as though everyone around you is incompetent, unlike here in America.
We got to the castle and had to take a vigorous hike up a few kilometers of mountain to reach the castle. Such a tourist attraction wouldn’t survive in the US; Americans won’t walk up a hill, they would demand motorized transport. It was a good walk and lead to some wonderful views from the castle and impressive works within.
After leaving Neuschwanstein, we had to make our way to France for the Formula 1 race the next day. We hopped in the car and headed West, stopping at a supermarket in Austria to pick up some bottled water. I mention the water because after studying the numerous varieties we bought two six packs, one marked “Naturel” and the other “Stille.” Turns out the latter has bubbles and the former doesn’t, which was opposite our expectations.
When we arrive at our bed and breakfast in Puligny-Montrachet the innkeeper informed us that the nice restaurant would be full since we were there so late, but if we didn’t mind something “not so fancy,” there was a place just a kilometer walk down the road. Upon arriving at the restaurant we found that it was not far from fancy at all and served a wonderful meal including a final cheese course. Very French and very, very good.